Saturday, May 10, 2008

Chinese Gardens

Chinese Gardens

310 N 4th St.,
Coeur d’Alene.

The sidewalk sign in front of Chinese Gardens announced in colorful chalk “Voted Coeur d’Alene’s Best Chinese Food 2008.” I have no idea where and when this important election was held, and frankly I feel a little emotionally bruised for not being asked to participate. Anyway, if you’d asked me six months ago for my thoughts on this issue, my snarky reply would have been that there really weren’t any “best Chinese food” places in town. Certainly grungy Chinese Gardens wouldn’t have qualified. In fact, I’d quit bothering with it several years ago after a series of meals arrived tortoiselike and at room temperature, flavorless and adrift in a deep sea of grease. One of their only saving graces was that they delivered to my local corner bar, where tipsy hunger pangs occasionally made the food seem almost palatable.

Opened in 1972 by the venerable Chane family, Chinese Gardens was one of the first places in town to serve such then-exotica as Chow Mein and Pork Foo Young. The newly emigrated Chanes lived upstairs in the same building as the restaurant and had nine kids who helped run the family business in various ways. I have distinct memories of dining there as a child, eating a cheeseburger and fries and listening to Mama and Papa Chane carry on vociferously from behind the thin kitchen walls in the harsh tones of their native language. It sounded like ferocious fighting and arguing to my young ears, and mixed with the dull thud of the chop-chop-chopping of the butcher knife, I was sure they were going to kill each other. In later years, I remember dear old Papa Chane always running the cash register, grinning from ear to ear but otherwise seeming slightly bewildered since he knew about as much English as Idahoans know Cantonese. After the elder Chanes had finally fried their final won ton, the family drifted, with son E-chen taking the reigns.

Heading up 4th street several months ago, I was so aghast to see that Chinese Gardens was dark during dinnertime that I had to pop into a nearby bar to see if anyone had the scoop. I suddenly felt guilty and rotten for saying mean things about them over the last few years. Okay, maybe I hadn’t found their food that fabulous lately, but the idea of the place being gone forever was too much to handle, like a part of my heritage ripped away. “Health board shut ‘em down?” blurted some lame drunk but no-one else seemed to have a better answer. Relief permeated the air after a friend of E-Chen’s was finally able to fill us in on the fact that they were simply undergoing a much needed remodeling and facelift. “Cheers!” we roared as our shot glasses clanked together. “Long live Chinese Gardens!” “Great, but are they going to remodel the menu too?” slurred the lame drunk to no-one in particular.

Thankfully, the answer to that question is an enthusiastic “Yes!” Like their elegant new interior look, the Chinese Gardens menu has been reconfigured and brought from the 70’s right into the 21st century. There are plenty of unique specialty dishes on the new menu, including trendy Chicken Lettuce Wraps, Savory Braised Tofu, Hot & Spicy Salmon with ginger and chili sauce, and Ma Ma Chicken, a stir-fry named after Mama Chane herself and served in a sauce nearly as spicy as she was. Creative lunch and dinner combos are available, and I was delighted to see that they now offer the option of Hot & Sour Soup along with the more traditional Egg Flower variety. I tried each on recent visits and both are incredibly tasty; the Egg Flower Soup is packed with fresh mushrooms, greens and a deeply satisfying chicken flavor and the Hot & Sour holds enough power to pleasure the most stubborn sinus passages.

On my first return visit, I found it hard to pay attention to the menu as I was distracted by taking in all the classy cosmetic improvements Chane has made to the place. The old tattered bright red booths and tacky Chinese lanterns have been replaced with sleek black metal chairs, faux-marble tabletops and lively framed prints. The ratty carpeting has been replaced by a subtle gray berber and the walls are a warm butterscotch tan. Gone are all traces of overt kitsch, replaced with antique hutches, low slung glass light fixtures, and a dazzling gold room-divider screen. Even the gigantic light-up mural of the Great Wall seems somehow understated hanging in the lobby above the burbling aquarium. Chinese pop music plays gently in the background, a gesture that I always notice and appreciate so much more than being forced to dine under the caterwauling din of Celine Dion or something.

Both recent visits were impressive enough that I might even agree with whoever voted the place tops in that mysterious poll they advertise out front. The Orange Chicken tasted fantastic but unfortunately, it arrived nearly cold. The Almond Chicken fared better and was among the best I ever had, all fluffy white chicken chunks, a light, not overly greasy batter and a rich gravy topped with powdery ground almonds. The crispy Chow Mein was flavorful and freshly made with dense pork sausage chunks. The hot mustard for my BBQ pork made me cry and I liked it. The fried rice is served plain, which is preferred to the method of adding nightmarish frozen mixed veggies. Best of all, the egg rolls were nice and light, free from the overkill of grease they used to drown them in here. The level of service was equally high on both visits as well, expedient and personable. I smiled when I read at the top of my receipt the name “New Chinese Gardens.” New, indeed, revitalized and ready for another forty years.


Unknown said...

Hi. Actually, the vote was the result of a "Best Of" issue of the Coeur d'Alene Press Business Journal which hit the news stands about the same day the sign on the sidewalk went up. The Journal had ballots for all kinds of "bests", and Chinese Gardens came out on top for Chinese, voted by readers. I know these things, because I work for the Press. I also noticed that today they appear to have a new website as well at: Looks like E-Chen is doing some great stuff there lately! Food was great when I visited last week too!

Brian said...

Fascinating; I'm glad E-chen is doing something with the old girl. The facelift was much needed. Sticking to the vinyl booths was more than a bit disgusting.

I'll have to check it out next time I'm in town. At the very least, Patrick, snag me a take out menu and bring it over with you over Memorial Day.

As for the "Best of", I was a bit taken aback to read that Chinese Gardens had been voted the best of anything. After reading Gary's comment, all has become clear! Since it was a poll sponsored by the Coeur d'Alene Press - a picayune publication noted for its high standards of journalism that appeals to the haut monde of Kootenai County /sarcasm off - it must be some post-ironic commentary.

Anonymous said...

I just love it when people move away and think that gives them the right to criticize. If we "allowed" you to move back (sarcasm off), would you then not feel the need to burden us with you trivial, mundane faux philosophies?

Unknown said...

Well, I know that many of us, as inbred Idaho bumpkins, don't have the civilized palates of the true haut monde who, sadly, do not live among us here in Coeur d'Alene to serve as a constant reminder of our own banality. But, the slack-jawed readers of the North Idaho Business Journal—who are obviously among the most uncivilized demographic imaginable—must have pulled their attention away from the Nascar and wife beating just long enough to cast their votes in favor of the Gardenss. (sarcasm in high gear throughout)

OrangeTV said...

Alright. Put away your claws, girls. At least the CDA Press Readers didn't vote for Safeway Asian Express.

As per usual: From Huckleberries Online -

Question: Are you a Chinese Gardens fan?
Posted by DFO | 10 May 12:18 AM

I was a prep cook at Chinese Gardens in the mid 80s. I had to work 60-hour weeks and was paid under the table in cash once a month. It was a tough job too. I had to de-bone 30 cases of chicken a week, fry the pork balls, make bbq pork and prep the egg rolls. You will never see me eat an egg roll by the way. Nor will I touch anything sweet-and sour.

Chinese Gardens hadd pretty good rep back then, but it went seriously downhill over the years. I am glad to see that it may be turning around again...we'll have to give it a try again.
Posted by Indy | 10 May 1:07 PM

For years I've hoped that a really good Chinese place would come to town. I'm talking the quality of King's in Greenacres or PF Changs.

We'll have to try the New Chinese Gardens.
Posted by Howard Martinson | 10 May 9:21 PM

Thanks OrangeTV, wife and I went there today. All you said is true. Same owners so I wonder why it took a remodel to change the taste from ok to excellent.
Posted by Gary Ingram | 11 May 9:28 PM

Me said...

My Girlfriend worked at Chinese Gardens back in the early 80's. We lived on 7th, across from the old High School, that is now a park. I would walk her to work because we didnt have a car. Those were indeed the best days or our young lives. Mamma and Pappa chane were slave drivers. Poor Sue Lan.. she lived upstairs above the restaurant with her 3 daughters, and worked that place until she finally paid off her servitude to the chanes.. She always made sure her 3 girls were well dressed, they were so polite and respectful.
Oh the memories of that place... I remember Mama and Pappa hiring my Girlfriend and I to work in their yard one summer. They had quite the house in fernan village area.. Mamma was one tough old bird.. Pappa just sort of went along with whatever she said....